 In a survey published by Asiaweek Magazine, Thailand’s capital of the north, Chiang Mai, was ranked as the 9th most liveable city in Asia east of Kabul. Poppycock! Say those arriving for the first time, who often wonder how such a concocted conclusion was drawn up in the first place!
It’s true that central CM has as much traffic congestion, air pollution, and noise nuisance, as any other large town or city in the kingdom. This often comes as somewhat of a surprise to those eco tourists arriving here searching for a little spiritual sanctuary with their nirvana noodles!
Also, getting around can be a bit of a sod too, especially late at night! Unless you have your own form or transport, be that a bicycle, motorbike, or car, your days will be spent haggling with one of Chiang Mai’s alternative cab drivers. Rides here will either be tuk-tuk (three wheeled taxi), or song thaw (modified pick-up trucks). Most of the popular routes operated by song thaws will be set fares, but be prepared to pay more if you look and act like a lost pedestrian! With the price or oil skyrocketing in recent months, many taxi drivers are using this (justifiably so) to their bargaining advantage.
More on Chiang Mai Transportation Network
Local bus services are almost non-existent, and meter taxis (yes they do have them!), are not allowed to tout for opportunist business around the town. All air conditioned cabs have to be pre-booked over the phone where a fixed price is agreed upon prior to dispatch. Kind of defeats having a meter really! As for motorcycle taxies, well, they do exist in a few out-of-the-way sub-sois, but it’s very rare to see them out and about on the city’s main roads.
Chiang Mai – Making the Move!
So if there’s more tarmac than temples, and more hassles than harmony when it comes to getting around, why then would anyone want to move to such a place? And mores to the point, why do any of Thailand’s expats who’ve made the move up here even bother to stay?
Well, many folks who come here have already read about CM and begin to see the ancient city in rose tinted glasses before they even arrive. Their expectations on arrival are often met with some degree of disappointment for reasons obvious. They get stuck in traffic, they’re hounded by tuk-tuk touts, and they begin gagging on pollution as they navigate their way along cracked pavements, latent potholes, and packs of passive (by day), yet aggressive (by night), street dogs. Did I mention that CM is far from a pedestrian friendly city!
However, once the new arrival settles themselves down and start to learn about this wonderful city from other long term residents and friendly locals, they soon adapt and begin to view living here in a whole new light. With its nooks and crannies, out of the way eateries, and laid back lifestyle, it doesn’t take too long to adjust once you’ve cut through the initial crap!
One of the best things about living in this place is the fact that you can go from cityscape to landscape in a matter of minutes. With jungles and mountainous terrain practically in everyone’s back garden, offering some of the most spectacular scenery in South East Asia, it’s little wonder why so many come to call the province of Chiang Mai their second home.
Places to Live – Chiang Mai Real Estate
Chiang Mai is a fast developing city, with construction going on just about everywhere you turn. Inevitably, there will come a time when city living becomes more expensive and more on a par with Bangkok, but for now, it really is a renters market. There are literally 1000’s of places to rent here catering for every taste and at all budget levels.
Cheap and cheerful no-thrills studios start from as little as 2,500 THB/Mo, with newer more modern studios boasting all the usual facilities (including pools & internet connections) starting at around 5,000 THB/Mo. There are so many hidden treasures in the quiet back streets you will literally be spoilt for choice and should find your dream dwelling pretty easily.
If a little more space and luxury is more up your alley, then It’s not too hard to find a 70+ Sqm 1 bed condo with mountain views starting from around 9-10,000 THB/Mo and up. There are of course brand new developments in luxury buildings going for a lot more. Renting town houses is also quite popular with many long term residents, and starting at around 5,000 THB/Mo for 2 and 3 bed joints, you can see why.
Private landlords and agencies have uploaded just a handful of the city’s homes on the site, but here are a few Chiang Mai Rentals to give you some idea of what’s available. (Just select Chiang Mai from the dropdown)
That’s about it for this piece. I hope you enjoyed this brief introduction to Thailand’s ‘Rose Of The North? Please leave any comments or questions you may have below.
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July 26th, 2008 at 5:29 am
I liven in CM for just under 1 year and cried when it was time to leave. It’s a very special place but like you say in the article, you have to be there a while to appreciate it.
July 28th, 2008 at 11:33 am
What a funny and true assessment of transportation here in Chieng Mai. Really the only way to go is by bike, motor or not. Just wanted to add that you can now find meter taxis at the malls, Central Gad Suan Gaow and Airport Plaza. Not a bad deal if you want to go to the movies during rainy season.
July 29th, 2008 at 4:50 am
I have never had the opportunity to live in Chiang Mai, but in my travels around Thailand I have enjoyed my self in Chiang Mai more than any other town outside Bangkok. Would love to get the chance to live there one day and use the famous Night Bazaar as my local supermarket.
July 29th, 2008 at 9:39 am
I’ve been in Chiang mai for 9 months now and am still finding great out of the way spots. True enough, getting a handle on transport takes some time, but it was a pleasant adventure rather than a tedious chore for me.
August 28th, 2008 at 7:28 am
Hi Aitch: I’m not sure exactly how rents compare between CM and Pattaya, but it is interesting there are a lot of apartments not serviced by agents here, the micro rentals (or super cheap Pattaya digs) as I like to call them. I really like your blog. You give a lot of good information. When I go to CM, I’ll look you up for sure!